Tyrolean Hash

Tiroler Gröstl is a hash from the Austrian state of Tyrol that was traditionally made from Sunday leftovers, but can also be made with bacon or speck. Wild mushrooms can be used for a vegetarian version.

The Zillertal mountains of Tyrol are a rugged and majestic wonderland with views on views and hearty food that dreams are made of.

Hiking up from the Schlegeis reservoir in Tyrol you come to Olpererhütte, an alpine mountain refuge with a staffed kitchen supplied by helicopter. Tiroler Gröstl and cold beer are on the menu, and we hoovered two plates while resting our legs.

While russets will crisp up nicely, their fluffy interior can get a bit mealy in hash. They are less forgiving to overcooking as well. Waxy potatoes like reds have a dense, creamy interior that holds together. Bake the potatoes the day before and chill in the refrigerator. The skins are thin and can be left on if you don't feel like peeling.

Larger potatoes should be halved. Smaller potatoes can be kept whole, but be sure to keep the slices between 1/4" and 1/3". Thicker pieces hold together and give a better bite.

We use a large 15" cast iron pan for this dish. A big rimmed griddle works as well, but you may have to use multiple pans if working with standard 12" diameter cookware. The objective is to get crispy/chewy meat along with some rendered fat.

Caramelize the onions in the rendered fat over medium-low heat. The onion will deglaze the bacon fond from the pan preserving the flavor, prevent burning, and ensuring the potatoes do not stick. Add a couple tablespoons of water if the moisture in the onions isn't enough, just be sure to cook it off. Cooking the bacon and onions first then adding them back later will ensure they are perfect. Chop the bacon into small pieces after it is cool enough to handle.

Increase the burner to high and add 2-3 tablespoons of butter. As the butter begins to brown around the edges add the potatoes in a single layer and season with salt. Reduce the burner to medium. In some pans (like stainless) the potatoes may initially stick, but allow them to brown and they will release without much effort. Adjust the burner and add a bit more butter as needed. If you add more than a single layer the potatoes on top will not brown and moisture will build up. Once browned, flip the potatoes and brown on the other side. Red potatoes won't crisp up like a russet, but it is important to achieve a deep golden brown for flavor.

Once the potatoes are golden brown add the caraway seeds and the reserved bacon and onion. Stir them into the potatoes and evenly distribute the grease. Allow them to cook together for a few minutes, then add the chives.

Shift the potatoes and increase the burner to medium-high. Add butter and prepare sunny side up eggs to top the hash. Same as the potatoes, allow the eggs to fully cook before trying to move them. Use the smallest knife-edged offset spatula that you can get.

In Austria we enjoyed Tiroler Gröstl with cabbage salad, or krautsalat. It is cool and refreshing with much needed acidity that cuts through the richness of the hash. It is flavored with caraway seed like the Tiroler Gröstl and eats like a salad rather than a pickle.

Slice the cabbage thin either by hand or with a food processor. The small amount of salt and sugar are crushed into the cabbage to soften and season it. It takes a few minutes to reach the right texture by hand. Adding the toasted caraway seed in this process helps to distribute its flavor. The onion is important for aroma, and can be minced fine if you want it to disappear in the salad. Adding the vinegar and small amount of oil at the end will build a dressing that pairs well with Tiroler Gröstl.

Similar to American Hash or Homefries with Bacon and Eggs, Tiroler Gröstl adds the flavor of caraway. Fresh marjoram is a popular addition if you have it, but skip the dried stuff. Leftover roasted meat can be added with the bacon and onions towards the end of cooking for an even heartier dish. The cabbage salad makes for a well rounded meal. With our chickens in high output, this is a regular dinner in our rotation that keeps the egg stockpile in check. Two eggs is best.